Hands on Hips over Risotto Making … and Seeing the Light with a Leftovers Risotto!

33

Hands on hips, but no pursed lips.  My ‘attitude’ regarding risotto is born of listening and learning from other people, and then practising at home.  Ours is not to pontificate but ours IS to investigate, evaluate and recreate.

DSC_0072

I would like to encourage people to think of risottos as something eminently ‘do-able’ and not a fancy schmancy dish that only a professional chef can handle.  And if it is true that a proper chef is naturally going to be more of a dab hand at producing a risotto of sublime standards of flavour, I see no hubris at all in wanting to believe that one can tackle a risotto of jolly good home-cooking standards of flavour.

058

Here are some points that I consider useful:

1) The choice of rice is important, obviously.  It has to be Italian rice, not jasmine or basmati or anything like that.  People abroad seem to think that Arborio is the only kind of rice for making a good risotto whereas in Italy it is the Carnaroli and Vialone Nano kind that are much more sought after and preferred by chefs as well as home cooks.  If you buy a rice like the Aquerello brand, which comes in a tin, then do open it at least half an hour before using it … to let the rice ‘breathe’.

2) A risotto always deserves to be cooked in good and well flavoured water, otherwise known as stock — be it vegetable, chicken/meat or fish in provenance.  You can salt the stock or salt the rice.  I usually do a bit of both.

3) Great care must be taken in ‘toasting’ the rice properly at the beginning (“tostatura”) to ensure that it will keep its figure and form and so that it will sneerily eschew the very notion of stickiness at the end of the cooking process.  When cooked, the rice must not stick together as if glued but, instead, each ‘chicco’ (grain) of rice must stand proudly independent while being intimately part of Team Risotto at the same time.  The tostatura of rice is executed over a fairly high heat.

4) Chopped onion is usually the premise for most risottos and needs to be cooked in olive oil (not butter).  Unlike the tostatura, the onion must cook over a LOW, soft heat in order not to brown.  And this presents us with a contradiction.  My easy way out of this is to cook the onion in a separate frying pan and add it to the rice later on, once the first few ladles of simmering stock have been added.  (I got this tip from Allan Bay’s cookery book “Cuochi si Diventa”.)

5) When adding the wine … it is a good idea to have the wine at least warm if not hot.  Wine is added just after the tostatura when the rice is very hot.  If you pour cold wine over it, it will bring the temperature down.  To be honest, I think this rule applies if you are making a large amount of risotto (say, over 1 kg).  If you are making less, I am sure room-temperature as opposed to hot is good enough.  The only hot liquid ALWAYS must be the stock that is added.

6) A risotto does NOT, contrary to so much public opinion and huffing and puffing about the subject, require constant stirring.  Nor is it always “creamy” in texture.   If you don’t believe me, I hope you will believe Gabriele Ferron (see http://thefoodpornographer.com/2013/09/rice-masterclass-with-gabriele-ferron ).

6a) Grated parmesan cheese tends to be added at the same time as the butter … with more sprinkled on top later on, if so desired.

7) It is a truth universally acknowledged that a single cook in possession of a good fortune would never dream of skimping on butter when it comes to finishing off a risotto (most risottos except for those that are fish based).  Once cooked, the risotto must be almost embalmed in butter and left to rest for a few minutes, preferably with a lid on top.  The term for this final touch is the verb  “mantecare” or noun “mantecatura”.   I mentioned in another post that I am much persuaded that the etymology could owe something to Spain, where the word for butter is: mantequilla.  (Let us not forget that the risotto is a dish from the North of Italy and that the Spanish aristocracy liked to rule bits and pieces of Italy.)  Of course the Italian word for ‘cloak’ is “manto” … so maybe it’s a case of using butter with which to ‘cloak’ the risotto.  On the other hand, there is the French gastronomy technique called “monter au  beurre”, which is about adding butter towards the end of a recipe, and the word ‘monter’ somehow got morphed into ‘mantecare’ ?

And that’s it!

The risotto I am presenting at the end of this hands-on-hips exhortatory introduction is one that complies with the rules of making the best of leftovers.  In this case the leftovers were yellow and red capsicum/peppers that I had roasted in the oven to serve as a vegetable side dish (“contorno”).  My camera was playing games with me that day and introduced far too much light into the frames and so I now call this recipe:

Risotto à la Praise the Lord, I saw the light! and here is a link to Johnny Cash singing it – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64iYiNAYXZo. Perhaps you could draw inspiration to make your own risotto with leftovers?

11a 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10I tasted it … and it required a few drops of lemon juice.
11 A cascade of grated parmesan.12 13Sssssh …. the risotto is “mantecat-ing” !
15 The finished risotto with a beam of light … this risotto saw the light!16I dotted the plate with little edible flowers from my balcony … they too saw the light!

Happy days everyone!

Advertisements

About myhomefoodthatsamore

Community celebration via food, wine and all beautiful things.
This entry was posted in Basic Techniques, italian home food, Primi (first courses - usually a pasta or risotto), Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to Hands on Hips over Risotto Making … and Seeing the Light with a Leftovers Risotto!

  1. Libby Morris says:

    I have only made risotto once (I believe it was a squash risotto) and it was a disaster – sticky, chewy…. all those characteristics that risotto is not supposed to be. I have avoided it ever since and instead relied on a lovely recipe from one of the early Marcella Hazan cookbooks – “Riso filante con la mozzarella” – when I have wanted to make something using italian rice. It’s easy, delicious, but definitely not a risotto in texture… more a manageable alternative for the “risotto-phobic”. Reading your post Jo, I think I will just have to give a risotto a try again… they are so scrumptious when made well and I’ll be sure to follow all your tips!

  2. Great post, Jo! I completely agree that risotto should be doable at home. I make it almost on a weekly basis 🙂 To be honest, I’ve hardly ever had good risotto in restaurants (including in Italy). I sometimes use clarified butter to prevent the problem of the butter burning during the tostatura. I’m definitely going to buy carnaroli rice and I will look some more into the benefits of stirring. I love the ‘peperonata’ risotto you made 🙂

  3. Francesca says:

    Dear Jo,
    I looooove your mini risotto bible! So useful especially for someone approaching risotto with fear. It took me a few times to master it but once you have done it, it is one of the simplest dishes to make. I always keep the basic ingredients at handy so I can make a simple parmigiano risotto last minute.

  4. Risotto 101 – fabulous Jo. Thank you for the tip on what type of rice to use – Arborio is most easily found here but I will now make a point of looking out for the Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. I used to make a chicken risotto most Mondays, using the carcass of the roast chicken from Sunday lunch to make a light stock and stirring in the left over bits of chicken into the finished risotto. If there was any risotto left over, they got moulded into little patties, with a small piece of mozzarella in the middle and baked in the oven and served with a spicy tomato sauce and salad. I love left overs!!!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s