Matriciana – Variation number 4

My son came over for a few days during his university’s reading week recently … and a matriciana is what he wanted when I asked him what he would like for lunch the day he was going back.  As with friend Zuzi, in the Matriciana variation no. 2, I was hoping that this pasta would ‘keep him company’ all the way back to his lodgings that night.

The biggest change in this variation is the omission of wine.  I have decided, and I may be wrong, that wine doesn’t ‘do’ anything for the matriciana.  The matriciana is delicious BECAUSE of its unctuous content … hence what is the point of cutting the fat with the wine?  I used a tomato passata (in other variations I used plum tomatoes, or fresh tomatoes and even a frozen-tomatoes sauce).  I added onion.  I removed the crisped up guanciale from the pan before adding the passata. And, even though it was by mistake that I had added olive oil in variation no. 3, I decided that a bit of olive oil actually adds to the dish.

All in all, as I said in the introductory post “Getting to grips with Matriciana”, this is the variation I think works best.  I do like the onion, I don’t like the wine (not particularly), and  removing the crisped up guanciale (or at least some of it) until the very end makes for a more pleasing ‘texture’.

Here is the guanciale in the iron pan.  The fresh chilli you see is there to remind you that, if you like chilli, now is the time to add it.

I added a tiny amount of olive oil before switching on the heat.  This is at variance with the codified Amatriciana recipe which eschews olive oil altogether.

When the guanciale had cooked, rendered its fat and gone crisp, I removed some of  it from the pan and set aside.

I left some of the guanciale in the pan and now added the chopped up onion.  I cooked it until it softened.  Don’t let it brown.

I then added the tomato passata.

Just before I was about to add the pasta to the sauce, I put the guanciale that I had set aside back into the pan.

Mix it all in.  If necessary, that is if the sauce is too ‘dry’, add a little bit of the cooking water.

A drizzle of lovely olive oil (oooo am I in trouble with the matriciana purists for this breach of recipe!).  Ready.  Except for the pecorino.  I decided I would add the pecorino separately, on each plate.

Good.  Very good.

About myhomefoodthatsamore

Community celebration via food, wine and all beautiful things.
This entry was posted in italian home food, Primi (first courses - usually a pasta or risotto), Uncategorized and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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